Emile Henry’s New Dutch Oven Line Is Full of Ultra-Light Bangers
April 5, 2023For many home cooks, the Dutch oven is an absolutely essential piece of equipment that’s almost always in rotation. This much we know: Dutch ovens are amazing tools for everything from braising meat and cooking stews to frying wings and baking bread. In my house, this is definitely true; we’re always making gumbo, beans and rice, brisket, mole, and fried pickles, and have multiple Dutch ovens to do it. Not everybody, though, wants to mess with a Dutch oven all the time.
I think there are probably two main reasons why people can have a hard time with Dutch ovens. For one, they can be difficult to maintain, as a lot of people don’t know how to use (or are just actively intimidated by) cast iron. Additionally, Dutch ovens can be heavy as hell. Honestly, I’m a fairly strong, strapping, (sort of) young man, and even I groan when I realize I’m going to have to pick up that 7.5-quart behemoth from the bottom shelf. Granted, there are many different kinds of Dutch ovens, like the perennially popular Lodge enameled cast iron Dutch oven, but as good as they are, they can easily seem like a huge pain in the ass that’s barely worth it—especially if you’re not someone who can easily lift a 15- or 20-pound piece of equipment.
I recently tested out French legacy brand Emile Henry’s new Sublime ceramic Dutch oven, which uses a proprietary, super-light ceramic and clay combo to replicate the feel of a classic Dutch oven, but without the weight and the maintenance. I was very curious about whether it could deliver the same versatility, endurance, and (most importantly) delicious results as its heavy, cast-iron counterparts. Additionally, it’s a pretty dang handsome piece of cookware (and if you choose to score it from Williams Sonoma, you’ll find some lovely exclusive colors).
Can ceramic Dutch ovens do all the stuff cast iron Dutch ovens can?
In short, yes. The Sublime Dutch oven is safe up to 930 degrees Fahrenheit, meaning you can jam at high heat all day long or broil off some meat at the last minute; it’s literally designed to distribute heat evenly. It’s pretty scratch-resistant, as well—I’ve cooked a number of dishes with this thing, and it still looks brand new.
What’s great about it
The verdict? It’s honestly a joy to use, and felt like the perfect “lite version” of the cast iron bad boys I cook with regularly. So far, I’ve made a number of soups, gumbo, fried fish, and red beans, and this big dog took it like a champ. The best thing about it, though, is how crazily light it is: the 4-quart option is just 6 goddamn pounds. That’s lighter than a bowling ball, most babies, and almost all dogs. If you’re going big, the 7-quart is still only just over 8 pounds. Still in baby range!
TL;DR: If you prefer the heaviness of a classic cast iron Dutch oven and have cooked with it for years, there might be no pulling you away; but for the many cooks out there who want something less intense, the Sublime Dutch oven is a pretty solid option. Both of my grandmothers love to cook, but I guarantee you that neither of ‘em are firing up a 15-pound pot to make dinner. A 4-quart Sublime Dutch oven would be the perfect tool for either of them (or, frankly, for me when I have a hangover). For the college student or amateur chef who’s starting to experiment with THC oil chili and is definitely going to leave a dirty pot sitting out for days, bang it to hell, and generally disrespect it, it might be better to go with something like this.
No matter who you are, it’s important to cook with tools that make you feel comfortable and allow you to move freely, and without strain. Emile Henry’s new ceramic Dutch oven feels inclusive and enticing to cooks of all kinds, and should be resilient enough to withstand whatever abuse you people dish out to it.
Emile Henry’s new Sublime ceramic Dutch oven is available at Williams Sonoma and King Arthur Baking.
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